Sunday, 27 July 2014

A newcomers guide to...Sweden

Well, I did a bit of a crazy thing a few months ago and followed a guy I’d only known for 2 months to Sweden!

The diving season in Khao Lak, Thailand was coming to an end. I had no solid reason to return to NZ (although I was missing my family and friends like crazy). And it really felt like the right thing to do.

Torrential downpours most afternoons in Khao Lak signalled the end of the dive season 
It made everything super green though!
Last dive trip...selfie with a batfish :)
It’s turned out to be another right decision on my mountain peaks and ocean depths journey. And here's why...

I can hardly believe that 2 1/2 months have passed. It feels like I’ve been on the go the entire time having seen so much of the countryside and met so many people.

I’m living in a tiny little village in Sweden called H-whee-fush (it took me about 4 weeks to realise it was spelled Skifors and that Skifors was not pronounced Sky-force…). Skifors is in the west of Sweden, a little under 2 hours drive from the west coast.


The summerhouse I'm living in
Skifors is in the Dalsland region which also happens to be one of the least inhabited regions in Sweden. Our nearest neighbours are a 5 minute walk away. The nearest people after that are about 10 minutes by car. 


Summer houses hidden in the trees lie empty for most of the year
Many churches are on the edge of lakes and have the best views
Nature abounds! You can’t walk 5 metres without falling over a pine or a birch tree. I’m pretty sure there are more lakes than land here. Wild animals roam through the forests and across the road (usually without warning). Perch and pike (aka fresh-water crocodiles) are common in the lakes. And the cry of birds echo around the valleys.
A normal afternoon - wandering through the forest looking for animals
Young elk we found one day
A pike swimming away - sometimes they are quite calm and stay around
Woodpecker
Loads of bright flowers are everywhere in summer
Lupins reminded me of home
Lily pads on one of the lakes late at night
Because of the relative isolation, it’s been a good chance for Kristian and I to get to know each other better. It turns out we are both quite strong-willed and used to doing things our own way. Luckily, this hasn’t really been too much of a problem as we’ve (strongly) voiced our own opinions for a while, and then hunted out common ground somewhere. For example...I have tidy, organised tendencies while Kristian is 'more flexible' in where items are placed. Now, providing the car keys are in the same place, we are happy.

Kristian is incredibly generous and thoughtful. He’s introduced me to loads of people so that I can make friends and feel at home here. He even realised that I need to spend time with girlfriends occasionally - which is the reason I’m on a fast train to Copenhagen as I write to spend a few days with one of my favourite girlfriends, Marie. 
Soaking up the sun in Copenhagen
I’ve also found out that Kristian loves the outdoors even more than me, and has obviously spent far more days and nights out on the lakes and in the bush than I initially realised.

He took me out one afternoon fishing. Well, what I really mean is that we towed a couple of lures on the end of fishing rods around behind the boat for an afternoon. Kristian persevered and eventually caught (and released) a pike. I pulled out my camera and captured the stunning scenery instead. It was so peaceful on the lake. And I know that providing I have my camera or a good book, I’m happy to sit out there for a few hours too.
Towing lures around the lake
The sunsets last for over an hour here - plenty of opportunities for pics
There’s a thing here called 'allemansrätten' which translates to “All Man’s Right. (For ages, I thought it meant 'Old Man's Right!!!) This basically means that you can wander across any land, through any forest or go on any lake you like, providing you don’t disturb others, damage property or annoy the animals. I quickly realised that this ‘right’ is a very cool thing. We can go for runs or walks through the forest, or head out to secret spots to pick all sorts of berries whenever and wherever we like. Cloudberries and raspberries are definitely my fav’s - and I’ve even learned to make jam!
Out hunting cloudberries (they like to grow in swampy areas)
Cloudberries!
My first batch of jam...ever!
This ‘right’ also allows you to camp just about anywhere. So it’s easy to pack a tent and some food (I can’t count on catching a fish) and find any random spot to set up for the night. There are plenty of sites (often on private land) that are set up for campers to freely use. They come equipped with stacks of firewood, long drop toilets and sometimes even toilet paper!

Because he’s always done this, Kristian knows some gorgeous little spots to stay at that are off the beaten track (BYO toilet paper though). The same day as the uneventful fishing expedition, we spent the night in a remote corner of Lake Östra Silen. I have to admit, I loved the camping far more than the fishing! It was so relaxing staring into the sparking campfire, listening to the haunting cry of Storlom and slapping away the mutant mosquitoes that threatened to carry me away. I chickened out on an early morning swim though. The water was so cold it felt like thousands of tiny needles were being poked into my feet!



Our well concealed campsite
Beautiful views from the tent
Storlom - one of the super pretty birds out here with an eerie cry
Everyone likes to play with fire
I was determined to have toast in the morning
However, the lakes have warmed up now and our latest ritual is to go for a swim every morning to properly wake up. There’s nothing like the feel of hitting 19 degrees water only for it to drop to 15 degrees at 1 metre deep! I’m getting used to it though. I don’t scream before I hit the water anymore. And I stay in for longer than 5 nanoseconds too (it helps that the lakes are about 25 degrees now). I’ve set a goal - to swim in at least 15 lakes by the time I leave Sweden. Shouldn’t be too difficult, I’m on 8 now…only 7 to go!


Just hanging out
Stripy perch are really curious and often come quite close
My Swedish is slightly better than when I first got here. I can follow some conversations now, although to speak myself is a bit slower.

Actually, I think I’ve learned a lot from the back of milk and yoghurt cartons! They have all sorts of funny facts, tricks and recipes, along with cartoonish drawings printed on the cartons. It intrigues me. I want to know what they say. So I’ve been known to pull out google translate at breakfast more than once.
Some of the interesting (and creepy) pictures on the back of milk and yoghurt cartons
Kristian has been a fabulous tour guide around other parts of Sweden and Norway. We’ve been to Stockholm and Gotland, Örebro, Goteborg, Uppsalla, Uddevalla, Karlstad and Halden as well as many other little towns and villages all over Dalslands (I’ll write about some of those trips another time). The country really is beautiful, the people are so friendly and I’m incredibly lucky to have the opportunity to see so much of it.

So much to do, so many stories to write about! I’ll fill you in on some of the other places we’ve been to and mischief we’ve got up to in future blog posts. 

Until then, hej då!
An all time favourite...icecream :)

Friday, 9 May 2014

If only...

6 (ish) months. November 2013 to May 2014. It seems like such a long time when I put it like that. But my last 6 months in Thailand have flown by in a whirlwind of energy, events and excitement. 

I look back on the last 6 months and sometimes think… If only I’d travelled around a bit more. If only I’d learned more of the Thai language. 
Translation please!
If only I’d taken that other job I was offered. If only I’d spoken to that person more. Yet when I look back at the things I have done and learned in the last 6 months, I can say, “Wow! Yep, I have done heaps. I have had fun. I have learned so much. Most importantly, I have no regrets!"

So what have I been up to??? Well...

I’ve become a divemaster and been responsible for the enjoyment and welfare of nearly 100 divers on dive and snorkel trips 
Trust me...you'll have so much fun!
With some of my dive colleagues
I’ve dived with whale-sharks and manta rays loads of times
Even more spectacular underwater!
I’ve stayed in a tiny, floating bamboo hut on the edge of a picturesque lake

Magical Khao Sok
I’ve trekked up to high mountain peaks and been doused in torrential downpours.



I’ve...
…ridden a scooter…with 2 others at the same time...several times
…swum in a hotel pool at 2am
...helped out at the local school that Wicked supports


...joined in the fun of SongKram (Thai New Year) with toothpaste and water fights


…been dropped off by myself on the side of the road in a small town 50km from home at 3am. (My next bus home was at 9am. I wandered around and thankfully found an open-air restaurant that was open all night. I ordered some food then fell asleep at the table. Guan and his wife (the owners) were so sweet. They woke me up, gave me a stretcher to lie on at the back of the restaurant, fed me breakfast in the morning then drove me to the bus stop! I love the hospitality of the Thai people).

Where it felt like I was dropped off...
Where I was actually dropped off
…gone for a swim in the sea most mornings

And in a place like this...why not
…doubled a mate on a pushbike - it was fine until we found out the bike had no brakes when we were going downhill...

We decided it was best to have our own bikes...
…done nearly 200 dives


…danced to live music and partied in local bars until 5am




…spent Christmas Day snorkelling in crystal clear water


…eaten out for breakfast, lunch and dinner…every single day


…had a guy I’d just met sit in on my dive medical exam (Janosch was one of my divemaster colleagues and thankfully we became great mates)
With Janosch (he's on the far left)
…been to a Muai Thai boxing event

The girls were the most vicious
…helped organise a snorkel test - the final test - for a group of divemaster trainees
What we made them wear...
Yoga...all part of the challenge

…geckoed on the side of the road
…made new friends from all around the world and stayed with some of them in my travels
…started seeing an amazing guy

…spent new years on the beach with thousands of others watching all the fireworks and setting off lanterns

…been to a 'beer raft' staff meeting

Use a BCD to float around...until someone pulls the dump valve
…visited a Moken sea gypsy village




…helped create an artificial reef

Figuring out how it all best fits together
All part of the prep
Cold drink after a hot afternoon of planning
...snuck up on animals to get that perfect shot




…been treated like a daughter by Chanpin, the owner of the place I lived at...


And I’ve got right out of my comfort zone by finally resigning from my secure, well paid job in New Zealand to continue with my journey. 

Memories of those of us who left...
My manager in NZ was good enough to give me 10 months leave without pay. Even after all the amazing experiences I’ve had and all I’ve learned, it was really tough to email him a month ago and say those 4 little words… 'Please accept my resignation’. I felt like I was welding a door shut that I would never be able to open again. 

Not long after I sent that email, I came across a cool quote attributed to both Alexander Graham Bell and Helen Keller. (I have no idea who said it first as they were both alive at the same time…). "When one door closes, another opens. But we often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door that we do not see the one which has opened for us.” 

Dare to step through...
I remembered that life always moves on. I could choose to stay doing what I’d always done, to hang on to the security of my job back home or to think ‘If only …' . 

Instead, I chose to focus on this one thing: Leave the past and look forward to what lies ahead. I've chosen to take risks and to dive through the new doors that opened in front of me. I’ve expanded my comfort zone beyond the borders of my imagination. I’ve proven to myself that I can survive (and survive quite happily) while travelling and living anywhere. And I’m looking forward to the next adventure that is just beginning.

I’m in Sweden now with Kristian. He’s showing me around his beautiful country and we have a bunch of new plans starting to take shape. Life is exciting. It is vibrant and there are so many opportunities if you only look around.
Gorgeous here...just a little cold

What will you do in your next 6 months? I challenge you to think big, to so something outside of your comfort zone. To focus on the future, not the past. To try something new. Maybe try a short volunteering stint somewhere near you and help out with something you’ve never done before. That’s how I started out a year ago. It’s amazing the world of opportunities that suddenly appear before your eyes.