My moya (crazy) speedboat ride to Naifaru

Ali picked me up from my Male hotel and took me on his motorbike to the boat. My large and cumbersome pack was wedged between his legs up front and I was perched on the back. No helmets, 30 km speed limit, lots of one way streets and judder bars. A couple of sets of lights but they don't work. And whoever gets to the intersection first has right of way... Maybe I should have been a bit apprehensive or worried. Was I? Not even a little bit. I get the impression everyone has been riding bikes since before they could walk and Ali was no exception. Quietly confident, outwardly capable. It was great!

The speedboat was about 10 metres long and sat 30.

Speed boat

This is one of the main forms of transport between islands and atolls. We took off out of the harbour and the captain put the hammers down. I reckon we were going about 30 knots out towards the open ocean. For the first 40 minutes, all was great. Sides open. A lovely breeze blowing in. Comfortable temperature. I was in the back of the boat facing forward so had a great view of all the islands that were coming up - and there were plenty.

Bye Male!

Resort island

Then conditions began to change. 

The sea got rougher. The sides were rolled down. It got stuffy and warmer. The boat kept up its pace. The next 40 minutes were OK. And then the conditions stepped up another level. It must have been blowing about 20 knots and the ocean swell, combined with a chop was making the ride less than enjoyable. I had to keep telling myself, you're ok, nearly there, you've been out in worse, they do this all the time... I was feeling really queasy by this stage and trying to figure out how to open the zippered side and get my head out to be sick without getting it over anyone else. 

Other forms of local transport

Just when I thought I couldn't take it anymore, a rogue wave came over the front of the boat and a flood of water surged in down the centre aisle. Thankfully, I was quick enough to grab my camera, the baby bag, someone's laptop and my backpack off the floor before they were swamped and all the electronics ruined. The crew calmly came down the back, pulled up the carpet to reveal drainage holes in the floor and the ankle deep water flowed out. 

We were near an island so the captain asked if we would like to stop there for a bit. A unanimous yes sealed the deal and I was able to recover and dry out for 45 minutes on dry land. 

We got going again and I started out feeling fine. But then all the water I had drunk started to slosh around and I knew it wasn't going to stay down. I didn't feel that bad after I'd been sick though. At least half the locals on the boat had also lost their lunch so I figured I was doing pretty good.

4 1/2 hours later we arrived at Naifaru to a crowd of family, friends and curious onlookers. Day 1 was over halfway through but there was still so much more to come. Home felt like a distant memory as I stepped ashore onto the island I will call home for the next 2 months.