A newcomers guide to...Sweden

Well, I did a bit of a crazy thing a few months ago and followed a guy I’d only known for 2 months to Sweden!

The diving season in Khao Lak, Thailand was coming to an end. I had no solid reason to return to NZ (although I was missing my family and friends like crazy). And it really felt like the right thing to do.

Torrential downpours most afternoons in Khao Lak signalled the end of the dive season 

It made everything super green though!

Last dive trip...selfie with a batfish :)

It’s turned out to be another right decision on my mountain peaks and ocean depths journey. And here's why...

I can hardly believe that 2 1/2 months have passed. It feels like I’ve been on the go the entire time having seen so much of the countryside and met so many people.

I’m living in a tiny little village in Sweden called H-whee-fush (it took me about 4 weeks to realise it was spelled Skifors and that Skifors was not pronounced Sky-force…). Skifors is in the west of Sweden, a little under 2 hours drive from the west coast.

The summerhouse I'm living in

Skifors is in the Dalsland region which also happens to be one of the least inhabited regions in Sweden. Our nearest neighbours are a 5 minute walk away. The nearest people after that are about 10 minutes by car. 

Summer houses hidden in the trees lie empty for most of the year

Many churches are on the edge of lakes and have the best views

Nature abounds! You can’t walk 5 metres without falling over a pine or a birch tree. I’m pretty sure there are more lakes than land here. Wild animals roam through the forests and across the road (usually without warning). Perch and pike (aka fresh-water crocodiles) are common in the lakes. And the cry of birds echo around the valleys.

A normal afternoon - wandering through the forest looking for animals

Young elk we found one day

A pike swimming away - sometimes they are quite calm and stay around

Woodpecker

Loads of bright flowers are everywhere in summer

Lupins reminded me of home

Lily pads on one of the lakes late at night

Because of the relative isolation, it’s been a good chance for Kristian and I to get to know each other better. It turns out we are both quite strong-willed and used to doing things our own way. Luckily, this hasn’t really been too much of a problem as we’ve (strongly) voiced our own opinions for a while, and then hunted out common ground somewhere. For example...I have tidy, organised tendencies while Kristian is 'more flexible' in where items are placed. Now, providing the car keys are in the same place, we are happy.

Kristian is incredibly generous and thoughtful. He’s introduced me to loads of people so that I can make friends and feel at home here. He even realised that I need to spend time with girlfriends occasionally - which is the reason I’m on a fast train to Copenhagen as I write to spend a few days with one of my favourite girlfriends, Marie. 

Soaking up the sun in Copenhagen

I’ve also found out that Kristian loves the outdoors even more than me, and has obviously spent far more days and nights out on the lakes and in the bush than I initially realised.

He took me out one afternoon fishing. Well, what I really mean is that we towed a couple of lures on the end of fishing rods around behind the boat for an afternoon. Kristian persevered and eventually caught (and released) a pike. I pulled out my camera and captured the stunning scenery instead. It was so peaceful on the lake. And I know that providing I have my camera or a good book, I’m happy to sit out there for a few hours too.

Towing lures around the lake

The sunsets last for over an hour here - plenty of opportunities for pics

There’s a thing here called 'allemansrätten' which translates to “All Man’s Right’. (For ages, I thought it meant 'Old Man's Right!!!) This basically means that you can wander across any land, through any forest or go on any lake you like, providing you don’t disturb others, damage property or annoy the animals. I quickly realised that this ‘right’ is a very cool thing. We can go for runs or walks through the forest, or head out to secret spots to pick all sorts of berries whenever and wherever we like. Cloudberries and raspberries are definitely my fav’s - and I’ve even learned to make jam!

Out hunting cloudberries (they like to grow in swampy areas)

Cloudberries!

My first batch of jam...ever!

This ‘right’ also allows you to camp just about anywhere. So it’s easy to pack a tent and some food (I can’t count on catching a fish) and find any random spot to set up for the night. There are plenty of sites (often on private land) that are set up for campers to freely use. They come equipped with stacks of firewood, long drop toilets and sometimes even toilet paper!

Because he’s always done this, Kristian knows some gorgeous little spots to stay at that are off the beaten track (BYO toilet paper though). The same day as the uneventful fishing expedition, we spent the night in a remote corner of Lake Östra Silen. I have to admit, I loved the camping far more than the fishing! It was so relaxing staring into the sparking campfire, listening to the haunting cry of Storlom and slapping away the mutant mosquitoes that threatened to carry me away. I chickened out on an early morning swim though. The water was so cold it felt like thousands of tiny needles were being poked into my feet!

Our well concealed campsite

Beautiful views from the tent

Storlom - one of the super pretty birds out here with an eerie cry

Everyone likes to play with fire

I was determined to have toast in the morning

However, the lakes have warmed up now and our latest ritual is to go for a swim every morning to properly wake up. There’s nothing like the feel of hitting 19 degrees water only for it to drop to 15 degrees at 1 metre deep! I’m getting used to it though. I don’t scream before I hit the water anymore. And I stay in for longer than 5 nanoseconds too (it helps that the lakes are about 25 degrees now). I’ve set a goal - to swim in at least 15 lakes by the time I leave Sweden. Shouldn’t be too difficult, I’m on 8 now…only 7 to go!

Just hanging out

Stripy perch are really curious and often come quite close

My Swedish is slightly better than when I first got here. I can follow some conversations now, although to speak myself is a bit slower.

Actually, I think I’ve learned a lot from the back of milk and yoghurt cartons! They have all sorts of funny facts, tricks and recipes, along with cartoonish drawings printed on the cartons. It intrigues me. I want to know what they say. So I’ve been known to pull out google translate at breakfast more than once.

Some of the interesting (and creepy) pictures on the back of milk and yoghurt cartons

Kristian has been a fabulous tour guide around other parts of Sweden and Norway. We’ve been to Stockholm and Gotland, Örebro, Goteborg, Uppsalla, Uddevalla, Karlstad and Halden as well as many other little towns and villages all over Dalslands (I’ll write about some of those trips another time). The country really is beautiful, the people are so friendly and I’m incredibly lucky to have the opportunity to see so much of it.

So much to do, so many stories to write about! I’ll fill you in on some of the other places we’ve been to and mischief we’ve got up to in future blog posts. 

Until then, hej då!

An all time favourite...icecream :)