The Winterless North - the way up

While NZ is at the bottom of the world, it’s not as backwards or simple as some people would have you believe. There are hotels, motels, B&B’s, backpackers, campgrounds, hostels and huts to suit any budget. In my humble opinion however, jumping in a campervan is the best way to see the country. You have transport. You have accommodation. You have food within arms reach. You don’t need to lug heavy bags around. You can squash an inordinate amount of ‘important stuff’ into those little cupboards. And you meet some fun people at the campgrounds along the way.

We spent 4 weeks catching up on the Auckland scene but it was time to pack up the campervan, and head up north. 

Our camper van was a Dad-special. Simply throw a few planks of plywood, carpet and a BBQ into the back of a van. And voila. One fully equipped camper van (sans bathroom) ready to go. 

A bathroom would have been nice but no space in here!

We threatened to pimp mum and dad's van out like this

Our first stop, Urititi. The beach is your typical east coast, white, sandy beach that stretches forever into the haze. The NZ Department of Conservation has campsites set up all over NZ at spots just like these. Some campgrounds have powered campsites, full kitchens and bathroom facilities. Some have basic long-drop toilets and perhaps cold showers. Others are somewhere in between. But it doesn’t matter which when you’re in your trusty camper.

Urititi Beach at sunset

Beach flowers

Time for dinner - hoodies for protection from mozzies

It was still warm enough for a swim at 8pm and we both decided the temperate sea was much more appealing than a cold shower! When we finally bunked down for the night, we were pleasantly surprised to find the van bed more comfortable than most hotel beds. A fun trip and good nights sleep. Perfect!

Smash the waves!

I'm clean again!!!

The Waipoua Forest is an ancient forest on the west coast filled with NZ native trees. The most famous trees here are the enormous, solid Kauri.

Looking out over a small part of the forest

A lookout only reached at the end of a long, narrow, metal road

A 5 minute walk takes you to the oldest and tallest of these monsters, Tane Mahuta, aka Lord of the Forest. Tane Mahuta is a whopping 51.5 metres tall and believed to have sprouted around 2000 years ago. His older cousin (yep, over 2000 years old), Te Matua Ngahere is just up the road. While Tane is the tall, slimmer tree, Te Matua is the shorter, fat one with a height of only 30 metres but a waistline of over 16 metres around!

With Tane Mahuta

Te Matua Ngahere - the short, fat tree

We sat, enjoying the silence that permeated through the forest (when the other tourists disappeared). To sit in the shadow of these giants and soak up the calm, cool atmosphere around me was undefinable. It was like time had stopped. And I felt I could rest, regain my strength and, after a while get back on the road.

What you see if you get off the road occasionally

NZ has plenty of little inlets and harbours reaching into the mainland from the stormy sea. Which usually means a long drive inland to go around them. However, there is a car ferry that crosses the Hokianga Harbour every hour and avoids an 80+km detour. We had a dinner date in Coopers Beach and so really, really, really wanted to catch the next ferry. Despite a couple of quick stops to fleetingly admire the Hokianga sand dunes, we made it…just (after putting the camper through it’s paces on the windy roads). 

The sand dunes at the entrance to the Hokianga Harbour

Just made the ferry - Goodbye Rawene

On the ferry

And we were so glad we did! The view of Doubtless Bay from the horseshoe of hills surrounding it, where Elise and Mark live, is fabulous. Combine that with NZ roast lamb, red wine and old friends made for a wonderfully, fun, memorable night.

Stunning view to wake up to

Bright eyed the next morning

Our experiences at the top of NZ and back down the east coast continue in the next post...